So first the view- and the listening test with the engine running (Hold your breath, C02!): Check thoroughly, whether you have the downpipe, the connection between the manifold and the first pot, actually need to replace. It usually lasts longer than the rest of the plant, because it is the first thing to warm up and so the water blows out. Even if you find an inexpensive complete offer for the new exhaust, you should leave the Y-pipe in place as long as possible: The elbow can warp over time, which makes the assembly of the new Y-pipe an endless fiddling around.
Whether only a part or the whole system is broken, the biggest problem will definitely be dismantling: Most of the time, after years of use, the individual parts of the exhaust have rusted together. Do you want to dismantle the whole system?, it still has to be broken down into individual parts, as it usually runs over the rear axle and therefore cannot be dismantled in one piece.
There are several options for loosening the plug connections: First you try it with rust remover. Doesn't that help?, try turning the pieces against each other and using a hammer. Nothing helps, If you have a system that needs to be completely replaced, you can use the Flex and cut everything into pieces.
Should the Y-pipe stay in place, the flex is useless: The thrust piece must remain intact for the new system to seal correctly. Our tip: Heat the piece of the exhaust, whose insert is above the other part, with a welder. It is expanding, and a strong hammer blow will solve it. The old system serves as a template for assembling the new one. Leave out the silencer for now, because you still have to circle it over the rear axle. Lubricate copious amounts of exhaust mount sealant into the pieces. You can take your time, because the material only hardens when the engine heats up or within two weeks. Just bend the fastening hooks open, when absolutely necessary: They are rusty too, which is not necessarily conducive to their strength. Now screw the clamps over the thrust pieces, start and listen to the right sound.
The end muffler of the exhaust system or the transition to the pipe is often the first to hit: Condensing water and external influences affect it. The shark gums are cut off without further ado, new rubbers are in the complete set. The screw connections are corroded and stiff: Spray with rust solvent. Even when individual parts are replaced: Clamps and rubbers should also be new. Sealing compound is placed between the connections before assembly, which hardens through heat. Now the new retaining rubbers can easily be hooked into the brackets. The sheet metal tabs do not have to be bent open (Risk of breakage!). After hanging and mating, the fastening clamps are fixed. Always align the tabs of the clamps to one side!
Delay tactic – You can find them on the shelves of accessory dealers: Sets of repair bandages or elastic mass, which should ensure quick repairs. This can and should of course only be a temporary first aid. A rusted exhaust system can possibly be with these means, at least for a short period of time, be reassured. The heat-resistant film is fixed over the damaged area with a bandage. The repair bandage costs about 5 Euro